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TT120 Flying Scotsman bogies


Peter-358535

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Hi, recently the front bogies on this loco came adrift whilst running the loco. Apparently the screw came loose which retains the assembly to the recessed nut in the bogie casting(!).

Luckily I found all the bits (including the spring and fibre washers), laying on the track.

Can anyone advise the correct order of re-assembly, and also the orientation of the conical spring please?

Thanks

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This doesn’t appear to be always consistent, due to differences in the clear plastic washer.

The best engineering assembly would be large end of the spring onto the recess in the truck casting, clear washer, cranked bracket, screw through the top and into the captive nut. The purpose of the clear washer is to prevent the spring winding itself into the slot in the cranked bracket and act as a lateral bearing.

However my latest WW had the spring mounted the other way, because the clear washer was too small to work the other way, so to my mind it’s been assembled incorrectly. The clear washer internal and outer diameter was too small. The spring can push through the elongated slot… not ideal.

My Silver King was assembled what I consider to be correctly. I have replaced the clear washer on WW and it is much better.


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Talking of A1/A3/A4 bogies (as they’re all the same on these Hornby models obviously)

I'm having my first real experience at having a problem with a set. It’s on a recently purchased A2 Night Hawk, even at the slowest of speeds it derails itself as soon as it meets a curve (I’ve tried 2nd, 3rd & 4th) On both Hornby & Peco it just can’t make the turn.

On inspection it looks exactly the same as the ones I have on all my other locos ( Blink Boney, Flying Scotsman, Billy Whitelaw & Mallard)

I’ve removed the black tape, disassembled & re-assembled. Nothing makes a difference.

Any ideas people?

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Peachy, check the angles in the cranked bracket and the clearance of front truck detail behind buffer beam/frame/cowling on A4. Mis-assembly of the truck spring can cause it to wind into the slot of the bracket so there is insufficient pressure to push it down.

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Thanks all for your comments - I agree Rallymatt, that seems the correct assembly method to me too.

I've applied a very small drop of cyno to around the bogie nut circumference to at least prevent it dropping out if it ever happens again - now to see if the bogie wheels still lift on a curve!

Not too enamoured with this part of the model design, if you have to resort to bending the mounting arm about to cure this problem!

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Hey chaps, thanks for the steers.

I’ve worked out what the issue is, poorly fitted model details just behind the buffer beam. The left hand (right in the photo attached) was glued in a position slightly bent in and swung back. This was clashing with the wheel which then climbed up it.


forum_image_648614254a0b7.thumb.png.c6761779f2f316a6aa0cc50a96a0b234.png

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi just adding to the discussion, having had the same problem with my newly delivered sound chipped Scotsman , the front right bogey wheel lifting off track on the curve (no matter what radius) ive just removed the piece of square black tape and it no longer has the problem. Thanks guys for the tip.

Hornby should fix this asap.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 4 months later...
On 6/11/2023 at 8:36 PM, Peachy said:

Hey chaps, thanks for the steers.

I’ve worked out what the issue is, poorly fitted model details just behind the buffer beam. The left hand (right in the photo attached) was glued in a position slightly bent in and swung back. This was clashing with the wheel which then climbed up it.

 

forum_image_648614254a0b7.thumb.png.c6761779f2f316a6aa0cc50a96a0b234.png

Peachy, this appears to be the problem I have with Night Hawk and Trigo, the bogie fouling the steps. 

Can the steps be moved to correct position without causing damage, ie will I physically need to bend them or can they be removed?

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